Chouara Tannery in Fez
As a photographer from Latvia, I have traveled wide, chasing stories, moments, and realities that often remain hidden from the mainstream lens. But nothing could have prepared me for what I would witness in Fez, Morocco, at the Chouara Tannery—a place where the sweat, grit, and soul of countless men are interwoven into every piece of leather that gets produced.
In Fez, the tannery is more than just an industry—it is a way of life. It has been part of the city’s heritage for centuries, a tradition passed down through generations. Yet, this tradition is also a curse for many of the workers, as it binds them to a lifetime of physical hardship. While some men enter the tannery as apprentices at a young age, others are born into the trade, as their fathers and grandfathers were before them.
The tannery operates like a living museum—an intricate, centuries-old system that hasn’t changed in a long time. The hides are still manually washed, scraped, and dyed by hand, each step done with a precision that has been honed over centuries.
The workers are exposed daily to toxic chemicals, such as ammonia, lime, and various dyes, that are used in the tanning process. Many of these chemicals are caustic and can cause severe damage to the skin, lungs, and eyes.
My camera became my way of connecting with these workers, capturing the rawness of their daily struggle. I often felt like I was intruding on a world I couldn’t fully understand. The smell of the Chouara Tannery is something I will never forget. It’s a pungent mix of raw leather, ammonia, and the stinging scent of chemicals that fills the air and clings to your skin. I wasn’t just documenting their labor; I was capturing their lives—lives defined by sacrifice and survival.
