Photographer and subject have a distinct relationship that is based on the sharing of ideas in mutual exploration of that which does not yet exist until the two come together to bring forth the work, the image that holds the wall or rests, nestled inside the book. The photograph is the space where two become one and what we see is the way in which they create something the world has never seen before.
“Every hat I have ever made has begun in my mind as a photograph. I can see it on the model, at the right angle, before I even begin. I can see what the girl’s going to look like and how it’s going to be worn. But it’s something that’s just for me,” writes celebrated milliner Philip Treacy at the introduction to Philip Treacy by Kevin Davies (Phaidon), an intimate and breathtaking retrospective of Treacy and Davies’ two decade-long partnership.
Treacy continues, “Photography, like design, is an obsession: an obsession with the final image. And most photographers, like most designers, are control freaks, because they care so muh that it all looks incredible in the end. We believe in it. Whether you’re a make-up artist, stylist, designer, architect, photographer or anyone working in the creative industries, your work is a point of view. It’s your point of view.”
And so it begins, an enchanting book dedicated to the space where art, fashion, design, and photography meet. Philip Treacy is primarily narrated by Davies, featuring his behind the scenes stories and image, all making their way towards the final image, the perfect shot. Treacy’s hats are wearable art, sculptures in their own right, the perfect construction of original shapes that not only flatter but create a distinguished and timeless look.
Treacy’s hats recall nothing so much as a time long gone, a time when men and women dressed head-to-toe before stepping out of the house. Hats are the last hurrah of a bygone era, a time when attention to detail was as important as expression of self. Treacy’s hats remind us that glamour is a state of mind, for to carry off one of his superb chapeau one must have presence, power, and fearlessness.
Davies photographs of the hats themselves are a spectacle of the simplest effect. Set upon a faceless mannequin head, set against a white backdrop, there is nothing to see except the hats themselves. Photography is a comfortable reminder that this is likely as close as we shall ever get, but this closeness will set your heart aflame. That the hats can be worn seems almost too grand. To simply gaze upon their eloquent and effortless form would be enough.
The photographs also remind us of the challenge of converting the three dimensions into two; for the perfect image demands that we can understand the full modeling from only one point of view. It is here that we begin to understand the strength of Treacy and Davies’ partnership, for their collaboration allows for the elegant and iconic representation of these hats.
Yet, despite the magic of the final photograph, it is the behind-the-scenes images that make this book a delight to page through and behold. Davies takes us on a tour through Treacy’s studios in London, giving us a glimpse into the process of constructing the hat as an objet d’art and slowly bringing it into existence. As Davies recalls, “To m, the atelier was an Aladdin’s cave, full to the brim with interesting and wonderful things. I could point the camera in any direction and there would be an interesting backdrop. It was great to have complete freedom and no particulate subject. The project felt open-ended and Philip didn’t seem to mind or notice me. He was focused on working and appeared completely comfortable.” And this is just what Davies’ photographs reveal.
As the book progresses, we see their partnership growing, evolving in tandem with Treacy’s career. We leave the atelier and enter the world of fashion shows, fashion shoots, and even inside Treacy’s home. The cumulative effect of this book goes far beyond fashion itself. It is a study of the life of an artist, working on a craft that has become as rarified as any handmade work in the digital age. It is a document through photographs of the day-to-day process of one of our most creative visionaries. And it is a tribute to the bond between artists, when each practices his own craft and through the act of collaboration, the world gets to share in the process.
Miss Rosen
