London’s National Portrait Gallery hosts a splendid exhibition to mark the Centenary of British Vogue, known affectionately in-house as ‘Brogue’. Thoughtfully curated by Robin Muir and imaginatively designed by Patrick Kinmonth, this is an exhibition to delight the general public and to thrill the fashion aficionado. We discover a bountiful cornucopia of elegance, glamour, and style, interwoven with portraits that situate the story of fashion against a broader political, social, and cultural history. Vogue has always been more than a fashion magazine, serving rather as a multi-faceted mirror of society.
The installation is chronological, but in reverse order, starting with the 21st century and traveling back in time. Without wishing to reveal too much and so deny the surprise of discovery to the visitor who has read these notes, let me just say that the installation is inventive and most effective in drawing you into the spirit of the magazine. This is not just a conventional display of photographic treasures revealed from the magazine’s archives. There are changes of pace and of scale that make the exhibition a special, immersive experience, varied and original settings that evoke the changing mood of each decade.
Many of the earlier prints are shown unframed or floated in frames that allow us to see the full sheet of paper. We are encouraged to consider them not just as images but as tangible objects. In the age of the electronically mediated image, this is instructive as a reminder of traditional analogue processes. We discover rare and wonderful vintage prints, sometimes in less than perfect condition, having served their purpose in originating the magazine’s printing plates. In many instances these are the only surviving prints of key images in the history of fashion photography. Though reproduced on the magazine page for a large audience and featured in various books, these unique original artefacts are now rightly appreciated as the archaeological treasures of this creative industry.
A handsome publication provides a record, but I recommend to anyone who has the opportunity – go see the exhibition; experience the prints themselves; savour in person this impressive centenary celebration.
EXHIBITION
Vogue 100, A Century of Style
Until May 22nd, 2016
National Portrait Gallery
St. Martin’s Pl
London WC2H 0HE
United Kingdom
http://www.npg.org.uk
