London’s legendary meat market, Smithfield Market, is set to close its doors in 2028, was announced by the City of London Corporation. Operating at night for over 800 years, Smithfield Market has primarily supplied wholesalers and restaurateurs across England. Located in the heart of London, between the City financial district and St. Paul’s Cathedral, it remains one of the city’s last active industrial strongholds.
Each night, thousands of workers in white coats labor from 2 a.m. to 8 a.m., unloading, setting up, and selling meat. British photographer Orlando Gili has captured a series of portraits of Smithfield’s butchers—the last generation in a long line of tradesmen. The market’s impending closure will leave a significant void: open every weekday night, it has been a fixture since the reign of King Henry VIII.
The Closure of Smithfield: A Final Sign of London’s Deindustrialization
Through this series of portraits, Orlando Gili aims to put a face to the meat industry’s workforce. The faces of these workers bear the marks of long, grueling night shifts. Captured at the start or end of their shifts, Gili’s photographs reveal a working-class side of England—the world of warehouses, laborers, and the food industry.
Some chose this profession out of passion, while others followed a family tradition. Although relocation assistance is being offered to displaced butchers, many are over sixty and will retire instead. With them disappears not just a trade but a whole chapter of this London neighborhood’s history and craftsmanship. Mr. Burt, who worked at Smithfield for 22 years, is surprised the market didn’t close sooner: Covent Garden, London’s former fruit and vegetable market, was relocated to Nine Elms in the suburbs in the 1970s.
For decades, industries have moved from city centers to suburbs and industrial zones, leading to the invisibility of workers—making Gili’s work all the more important. Located in the heart of London, Smithfield Market is set to be transformed into the new home of the Museum of London.
Photographing Factory Workers: A Political Act
Photographing labor is a political act. Today, gaining access to factories to document workers is an uphill battle. Yet, recording the working conditions of laborers remains essential.
Orlando Gili captures the last generation of Smithfield’s butchers. Meat consumption has steadily declined in recent years, and the meat trade is evolving—with the rise of small-scale abattoirs and more ethical meat production. His series, Smithfield Night Market, immortalizes the fleeting and sheds light on the workers who toil in the shadows.
Laurine Varnier
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