Top nineties fashion photographer Thierry Le Gouès created some of the nineties’ hottest fashion looks, shooting with the experimentation and innovation that made him a star of the European Condé Nast and Fairchild fashion bibles (Vogue, Marie Claire, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar), in addition to breakthrough work in the US editions and genre-bending shoots for the UK frontrunners (i-D, The Face) and downtown chroniclers Detour and Flaunt.
These pictorials defined a decade, one enjoying the bright lights of a nostalgic millennial flashback, and put the likes of Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Stephanie Seymour, Carla Bruni, Amber Valletta, Eva Herzigova, Kristen McMenamy, Yasmeen Ghauri, Helena Christensen, Tatjana Patitz, and Karen Mudler on the map.
Le Gouès was also one of the first fashion photographers to feature exclusively models of African heritage and ethnicity; the success of his first book Soul (powerHouse Books, 1997) featuring Black models, posed strikingly, nude, with skin paint treatment, led to a multi-year international campaign for Nike and featured top American athletes.
His later projects on Cuban street fashion and sports culture (Popular, and Havana Boxing Club, both powerHouse Books) also influenced later campaigns and editorials. His work for brands such as Alexander McQueen, Armani, Bottega, Cartier, Fendi, Gucci, Hermés, Moschino, Paco Rabanne, Pierre Cardin, and Ralph Lauren are renowned.
Thierry’s eye on his models is very special: imbued with delicacy and empathy, the shots are simple and joyful…. His images are always strong—even the most delicate of them exudes a granitic starkness…. And that is what one feels when leafing through this book: all the strength and emotion of his talent. — Carla Bruni
Thierry Le Gouès began his career shooting for Condé Nast in 1986. His fashion, documentary, and editorial photography has appeared in publications internationally including Vogue and l’Uomo Vogue, Lei, Per Lui, Amica, and Marie Claire in Italy; Glamour, Vogue Homme International, and Vogue in France; Arena, Vogue, i-D, The Face, Harper’s Bazaar, and Elle in England; and Harper’s Bazaar, Allure, Detour, Interview, Vogue, W, and Flaunt in the United States. He is also one of the founders of the magazine French Magazine. Figuratively speaking, Thierry’s style may serve as a model for its immediacy and openness of content, an ethic—more than an aesthetic—principle, witnessed in his magazine work and editorial campaigns.
Le Gouès’ international advertising campaigns include Nike, Levi’s, Hermès, Yves Saint Laurent, Fendi, Moschino, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Pierre Cardin, Cartier, and Paco Rabanne, and he has captured celebs such as Beyoncé, Mary J. Blige, Pete Doherty, Harrison Ford, Isaac Hayes, Alicia Keys, Lenny Kravitz, Neymar, and Sharon Stone. 90’s is the fourth book to be published by powerHouse Books. It follows the landmark book of black nude models Soul (1998), Cuban culture style bible Popular (2000), and the deep dive sport meditation Havana Boxing Club (2015). Le Gouès is based in Paris.
Thierry Le Gouès : 90’s