Walking around Marseille, one passes street markets, plastic tables covered with fresh fish, and outdoor stands providing traditional Maghrebi foods. Voices are loud, lively. Stories are long, exaggerated, punctuated with humor. Accents come from everywhere – Arabic, Southern, popular, and, more exotically yet, the occasional Parisian freshly settled in Marseille to seek warmth. All along the shore, salty scents merge...
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