Today’s hint, the exhibition Helmut Newton. Works at GAM in Turin, is ideally close to Culture Never Stops!, the initiative of the Italian Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Activities and Tourism (MiBACT) that opens virtually, free of charge, the places of culture to people during the lockdown period due to Coronavirus. In this suspended time, very many institutions complied with Ministry’s invitation, so you can browse the web wandering through amazing museums, archaeological sites, monuments, concerts, exhibitions…
The Eye of Photography, in order to use this suspended time to further deepen our interests in photography, plans to carry out virtual visits to museums and exhibitions, following the path of #laculturanonsiferma. Thus, while waiting eagerly for visiting in person the Helmut Newton. Works exhibition at GAM and watching the “real” prints – photos as physical art objects – we suggest to have a look at the link https://www.gamtorino.it/it/news/guarda-cerca-scopri, with interesting playlists dealing with this show as well as with the best most interesting pieces of art from the Palazzo Madama and the Museo d’Arte Orientale collections in Turin. Other visual material can be seen on the Museums’ social media.
It’is, obviously, a virtual visit of this major retrospective dedicated to Newton at GAM – Civic Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art of Turin. By the way, there’s the idea of extending the exhibition period.
Curated by Matthias Harder, director of the Helmut Newton Foundation Berlin, the exhibition shows 68 photographs for a comprehensive overview of the long career of the master, whose unique visual concepts still amaze while making a sensation.
A long time ago, I interviewed Helmut Newton (I was a young journalist at that time) and I could feel his inner and creative strenght. It was all the same evident the reason why his images managed to reach a public of millions through books and magazines.
He brought a revolution in fashion photography: his shoots went beyond the standard practice, interweaving a parallel narrative, tinged with a sense of surrealism or suspense, while reality and fiction overlap, between power and seduction.
Fashion photography describes and redefines the spirit of the times and Newton did it in such a fascinating way, transcending traditional narrative approaches, thanks to luxurious elegance and subtle seduction, but also cultural references and sense of humour. Indeed, Helmut Newton used to say: “Fashion was my first desire, even as a school boy. And of course, I wanted to be a Vogue photographer “.
“Spanning more than five decades, the work of Helmut Newton defies categorization. Newton transcended genres, bringing elegance, style, and voyeurism to fashion, beauty, and glamour photography for an oeuvre that remains as inimitable as it is unrivaled”, Matthias Harder states.
Four sections present Newton’s work in this long period of time, featuring some of the most powerful and innovative shots of his time. His most important fashion photo campaigns, like the ones he created for Mario Valentino and Thierry Mugler in 1998, are shown together with a series of iconic photographs for the most well-known international fashion magazines. The show includes works from the 1970s, with the covers for Vogue, to Newton’s later work with the portrait of Leni Riefenstahl (2000). Many portraits of 20th century celebrities are on display, including those of Paloma Picasso (1983), Andy Warhol (1974), Catherine Deneuve (1976), Gianni Agnelli (1997), Anita Ekberg (1988), Claudia Schiffer (1992) and Gianfranco Ferré (1996).
Helmut Newton used to be a lucid interpreter of an era. His camera managed to deeply scan reality: behind the elegant gesture of his images, it is possible “to get a glimpse of yet another reality, which is up to the viewer to interpret”. Indeed, according to June Newton, “Helmut’s a great manipulator. He knows exactly what he wants and he is relentless in his drive to get that on film. He loves the theatricality of photography. The models become his creatures, his characters”.
The exhibition is promoted by the Fondazione Torino Musei and produced by Civita Mostre e Musei in collaboration with the Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlin. Helmut Newton. Works is the title of the book published by Taschen, which also includes the photos on display in this exhibition and ideally represents its catalogue.
Paola Sammartano
Paola Sammartano is a journalist, specialized in arts and photography, based in Milan
HELMUT NEWTON. Works
January 30 – May 3, 2020
GAM – Galleria civica d’arte moderna e contemporanea
via Magenta, 31
10128 Torino, Italy
