John Demsey: “BACK IN THE GAME”
John Demsey is a prominent figure in the cosmetics industry, recognized for his influential role within the Estée Lauder Companies. With a career spanning several decades, he has also played a crucial role in the development and success of many iconic brands under the Estée Lauder umbrella, including MAC Cosmetics, Clinique, Tom Ford Beauty, and Bobbi Brown.
Born with a passion for marketing and branding, he has anticipated trends and understood consumer desires, enabling him to transform and revitalize the brands he has led. His innovative approach and keen eye for detail have strengthened these brands’ identities and propelled them to the top of the beauty industry.
Under his leadership, MAC Cosmetics became a flagship brand known for its diversity and inclusivity, promoting important social causes and collaborating with various cultural icons. This explains why John Demsey is also recognized for his commitment to social responsibility and philanthropic initiatives, notably contributing to causes like the fight against HIV/AIDS through the MAC AIDS Fund.
After a two-year break during which he worked on various projects including the creation of the book “Behind the Blue Door”, which invites readers to explore his personal world and passion for photography, John Demsey, with his reputation as a visionary leader, is back in the game with various internationally renowned brands. He brings with him an unwavering passion and limitless creative ideas, undoubtedly continuing to shape the future of beauty and cosmetics for many years to come.
Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/jdemsey/
Book : “Behind the blue door”, Editor : Vendome Press
https://www.vendomepress.com/book/behind-the-blue-door/
Your first photographic trigger?
John Demsey : The first photo that I purchased was a portrait of Brigitte Bardot when I was 19. I bought it at Le Marché Serpette in Paris. It was my first trigger for glamour beauty and and allure which have become my style signifiers over my lifetime of passionate collecting photography.
Vintage publicity photo of Brigitte Bardot, sourced at Marché aux Puces, Paris
The man or woman who inspires you?
John Demsey : My inspiration actually is my mother Renée, an accomplished painter
The image you wish you made?
John Demsey : Paloma Picasso’s portrait with one breast exposed by Helmut Newton.
Helmut Newton – Paloma Picasso wearing a Karl Lagerfeld dress, Saint-Tropez, July 5, 1973 © Helmut Newton Foundation
The image that moved you?
John Demsey : I believe that the image that moved me the most is “Dovima with Elephants, Evening Dress by Dior, Cirque d’Hiver, Paris, 1955” by Richard Avedon.
Richard Avedon – Dovima with Elephants, Evening Dress by Dior, Cirque d’Hiver, Paris, 1955 © The Richard Avedon Foundation
And the one that made you angry?
John Demsey : The most upsetting image that remains in my mind was of the running girl burning in napalm taken by Nick Ut during the Vietnam war. It remains haunting.
© Nick Ut / AP
A key image in your personal pantheon?
John Demsey : I would say images of Andy Warhol at the factory with Edie Sedgwick.
A photographic memory from your childhood?
John Demsey : It is probably snapping away with my Polaroid Swinger camera. Instant gratification.
Whatever your budget, which work of art would you most like to acquire?
John Demsey : “Le Violon d’Ingres” by Man Ray.
What do you think makes a good photographer?
John Demsey : A great photographer captures the soul of its subject matter through composition, lighting, the subject itself matters to, the context and the point of view.
The secret of a perfect image ?
John Demsey : Perfection is in the eye of the beholder. It, in concept, does not exist. An image can be perfect to you by its ability to emote a human connection.
Who would you photograph if you could?
John Demsey : I’m not a great photographer myself, but if I had the opportunity I would love to take a portrait of The Rolling Stones.
Which photographer would you like to have your portrait taken by?
John Demsey : Many of the greats are now gone. A David Bailey portrait would be amazing.
An essential photo book?
John Demsey : Helmut Newton’s SUMO revised by June Newton.
Your childhood camera?
John Demsey : Kodak instamatic.
The one you use actually (if you use one) ?
John Demsey : Today I use my iPhone 15 Pro Max.
Your favorite drug?
John Demsey : Caffeine.
The best way to disconnect?
John Demsey : Being in bed with my 7 dogs.
What is your personal relationship with images?
John Demsey : I am a very visual person. Creativity, style and art direction in life and on film inspire my hopes and dreams.
Your greatest quality?
John Demsey : Probably being always curious, and always challenging the status quo.
Your latest folly?
John Demsey : Probably the last photograph I bought. A giant Miles Aldridge showing a girl opening a large blue door.
An image to illustrate a new banknote?
John Demsey : Grace Jones “Slave to the Rhythm” shot by Jean-Paul Goude.
The job you wouldn’t have liked to do?
John Demsey : I think I would be a very poor chef as I cannot cook.
And if you had been a photographer, what would have been your favorite subject?
John Demsey : If I was a photographer I would have liked to have a career like Richard Avedon. Fashion and serious portraiture.
Your greatest professional extravagance?
John Demsey : Oh ! It’s probably buying works of art from the photographers who created imagery for my campaigns. It is a very long and expensive list.
Where do you think photography ends and art photography begins?
John Demsey : The line between art and commercial lies in how and where an image is used. There are many greatly artistic publicity campaigns that could be without the context of selling things. For example Guy Bourdin for Charles Jourdan.
The place you never tire of?
John Demsey : Paris.
Your biggest regret?
John Demsey : Not becoming a serious collector sooner.
In terms of social networks, do you prefer Instagram, Facebook or Tik Tok, and why?
John Demsey : Actually the algorithm of TikTok is addictive and fun. Instagram can be more artful. Hard to choose. I believe that too much of what we see is based on instant gratification and not on subject matter that has greater spirit and meaning.
Don’t you think that today’s world focuses too much on “image”, i.e. appearance, to the detriment of what’s essential?
John Demsey : I believe that we must accept what technology brings us and use it as an enabler of even greater possibilities.
Color or B&W ?
John Demsey : Though my life is full saturation color. So I would say Black and white. I like a masterful composition with artificial lighting. More dramatic and higher impact.
Does your heart lean more towards film or digital?
John Demsey : I’m old school, I still love film.
Which is the most photogenic city in your opinion?
John Demsey : It could look like a strange answer, but I will say Los Angeles. There is something about the wide open space atmosphere and intrinsic glam.
If God existed, would you ask him to pose for you, or would you opt for a selfie with him?
John Demsey : I would want a selfie with God.
If I could organize your ideal dinner party, who would be around the table?
John Demsey : My ideal dinner party would be with Louis Malle, Veruschka, Spike Lee, Madonna, Salvador Dali, Maria Callas, Guy Bourdin, Robert Evans, Tom Wolf, Fran Leibowitz and Cleopatra.
Which image do you think represents the current state of the world?
John Demsey : I would say the album cover of “Ball of confusion” by The Temptations.
What do you think is missing from today’s world?
John Demsey : With no doubt : kindness and a sense of humor.
If you had to start all over again?
John Demsey : I would leave a note to my younger self : “Lighten up, it’s long and winding road.”
Any last words?
John Demsey : I find inspiration and joy everywhere. So the only thing I can say is : “Push outside of your comfort zone, be humble and seize the moment every single day.”
